takoradi

We awoke yesterday to the smell of smoke as we arrived in Takoradi, Ghana (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sekondi-Takoradi) around 7:30am. There apparently are not many passenger ships that arrive in Takoradi Harbour (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takoradi_Harbour); it is mainly for container ships and is very industrial, almost hazardous to walk. We had been warned of a couple of things in Takoradi - the persistence of the young men who are trying to sell their wares (bracelets, bookmarks, key rings, paintings, various articles of clothing), and the gutters and gaping holes in the sidewalks that are full of raw sewage. We were advised to use mosquito spray (we were already taking our malaria medications), to carry no more "stuff" than we absolutely needed, and that we would absolutely need toilet paper and hand sanitizer. John had decided he would stay on the ship and use the time to get some work done, and I went out with one of the other women on the ship whose husband was off on a field lab with his students.

A shuttle bus had been arranged from the ship to the port gate and we got on it after talking with some of the young men at the market that had been set up just off the ship. They were indeed persistent, but very warm and welcoming, calling me and my friend "mama", as they did with all women our age. As we approached the port gate, we could see another, much larger gathering of these fellows. They are all selling the same things, but introduce themselves as famous artists in Takoradi. As the bus doors opened, we were absolutely overwhelmed by this group. We had been told that if you don't make eye contact and just keep walking saying "no thank you", they will eventually leave you to find someone else and this does work, although having them all invading personal space and grabbing at your arms is a bit disconcerting! We were planning to walk to Market Circle (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Market_Circle,_Takoradi,_Ghana) and met up to walk together with one of our Life Long Learner couples and three students.

The whole experience is not one I will soon forget and one that I am still trying to process. It would be difficult to overstate the amount of filth in this city. The open raw sewage is real, the market area is packed with people and full of food. The smell is impossible to imagine and difficult to tolerate. There were lots of vegetables, fish both raw and dried, snails the size of your fist (my companion said later they looked like something out of a Disney movie and should have had names), some textiles and other items. We stayed on the outside of the market because we were afraid what we might find or how we might react if we went inside, and it was very hot and humid outside, worse inside. But then we began to look at the people there, mainly women and children. They had radiant smiles and words of welcome for us. They tried using their limited English. Young mothers showed us their babies. There are not a lot of tourists in Takoradi and they seemed genuinely happy to see us. Children carrying trays of items on their heads followed us. These children work as hard as their mothers do. As dirty as the city is, they are clean and so are their clothes.

After walking the entire circle, we decided it was time to head back to the ship, so we started back the way we had come. We split up - the students got a cab to go to the beach, and the LLL couple decided to stop at a grocery store. My friend and I walked back to the shuttle, occasionally stopped by the young "artists". It was a very hot walk back; taxis drove by and honked and asked if we wanted to ride (this is the only place I have ever been where the taxis call YOU), but we continued walking were relieved to get back to the port and the ship. I have felt no need to go out again, but am very glad we had a little adventure in Takoradi.

In an hour or so we will be leaving for our next port, Tema. It is not far away and we will be there in the morning. This port is close to Ghana's largest city, Accra. Some of us have plans to go to a market tomorrow and eat lunch off the ship. Can hardly wait to see what our next adventure will be!